Utility Knife Safety Tips

Utility Knife Safety Lesson- Knife Handling Safety Tips

Benchmade 710 – Get The High End Multi Purpose Pocket Knife

The next few paragraphs offers important tips and advice that could help you successfully pick a pocket knife for your needs. Find the best pocket knife and it will serve you well for years to come.

The Benchmade 710 was designed by custom knife makers Bill McHenry and Jason Williams. It is the end product of their hard work over the course of 4 years. The popular AXIS lock makes it possible for easy one-handed opening and closing of the blade without your fingers ever being in the path of the blade. The lock was also designed by Bill and Jason. The lock design is straightforward to activate without directions needed on how the knife works.

As simple as the lock is, perhaps its major selling feature is its brute strength. In testing, the lock supported a negative load of over 200 pounds with no damage. After the lock finally failed, the liners simply cracked over the locking pin but in no way would the blade have closed on the user hand in testing.

For great functional redundancy, the AXIS lock features two Omega shaped springs. The springs are lightly stressed and tests demonstrate they should last indefinitely. Even though one spring fails, another will still operate without any problems.

It is difficult to say if this is the most durable lock made in folding knives. The manufacturer states the Benchmade 710 is more robust than any other knives on market. The sizable 3.9″ D2 Tool Steel blade of the 710 features a reverse-curve grind for better cutting ability.

On the butt end of the knife, there is a detachable stainless steel pocket clip. The butt end position of the clip is required as a result of the locking system. If the clip were positioned on the pivot end, the knife would stick out much very far out of your pocket.

The belt clip is reversible and feels natural in hand. I have the 710 Benchmade and use it for everything – cutting paper and cardboard, cutting string, heavy duty plastic box straps, cutting into the occasional snack, etc. It holds its edge very well.

Find out more. Click here for Free information on 710 Benchmade pocket knives

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

Original Source: http://www.articlesfactory.com/articles/advice/benchmade-710-get-the-high-end-multi-purpose-pocket-knife.html

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fairuza_kay asked how to put up backsplash in mobile home.. PLEASE HELP!!!?

I just bought a mobile home and the sheetrock around the bathtub is super soft and has to be replaced! But instead of putting up more sheetrock and it becoming soft agian I wanted to put up a plastic backsplash but I have no idea how to do it. Do I put more sheetrock up and put the backsplash on top of it or what??? Please help!!

And got the following answer:

If the original sheetrock is damaged enough to be soft, then, yes, it should be replaced.

Typically, in a mobile home, the sheetrock is put on the walls before the tub is installed. If this is a standard tub, like found in most hall baths, there will be some white vinyl trim that runs around the tub itself, and is probably caulked, where the trim meets the wall, and occasionally where the trim overlaps the tub. The tub itself will have a small lip, running around it, with screws that secure the tub to the walls.

Use a utility knife to score the caulk at the trim/wall. This trim is installed, usually, with pin nails, or occasionally, narrow crown staples. A flat putty knife is handy to pry the trim away from the wall, and a pair of slip joint pliers is handy to pull the nails out of the trim afterwards (then you can re-use the trim later after cleaning it up).

Once the trim is removed, you can access the screws holding the tub to the wall. Youve got a choice here… you can pull the tub out, and replace the entire sheetrock, or you can use that utility knife and a drywall saw to cut the sheetrock along the edge of the tub. I would recommend that you go ahead and replace the entire sheetrock.

To pull the tub itself, you will need to unhook the plumbing, and remove the screws that secure it to the wall. The drain can be accessed from under the floor. If you need to remove the sheetrock from around the tub faucet, and shower head, then the handles, shower head, and escutcheon, will need to be removed…but not the actual valves. Now… if this is a ‘pedestal’ or ‘platform’ tub…often referred to as a ‘garden tub’… you can reach in under the tub, thru an access panel to get to the screws holding it in place… or, again… you have the option of just cutting the sheetrock off at the point where it meets the ‘deck’, or tub. You might think you don’t have enough room to pull the tub out, because the toilet, or sink is in the way…. if you have the standard acrylic tub tho, there is a small trick… that front panel that you step over to get into the tub, is actually a bit flexible…. you can bend it forward just enough to twist the tub up and out of where it sits (its actually pretty light, and easy to lift) Garden tubs usually have enough room around them to be moved around at will, fairly easy.

The sheetrock is glued to the walls, as well as stapled. Throw down a layer of plastic in the tub, to protect it.

For quick and easy tear out of sheetrock…. I will use a utility knife to score a square in the sheetrock, between the studs… then cut an X inside the square. (make TWO squares if this is a wide piece) Use a hammer and strike the center of the X, and the sheet rock will snap along the lines into the wall… a little clean up of the hole, and now you have two handles to help pull the sheetrock off the wall. (put those squares at a comfortable height to work with…. say, about chest high, on whoever is going to pull it off the wall) Score a line across the sheetrock, horizontally, somewhere below waist height, and it will ‘fold’ itself along that line, making it easier to pull off the wall. Ive done this quite a few times…and you will find that it actually takes longer to get TO the point of pulling the sheetrock off the wall, than it actually does to pull it off, hehehehehe.

Once the old sheetrock is removed (in mobile homes it is usually 3/8″ to 1/2″ thick) you will need to spend just a few minutes pulling those staples out of the wall studs, and scrape off any excess glue still on the studs. (Most manufactured housing uses an expanding foam type of glue, but some do use construction adhesive). If its the foam type glue, you will find it scrapes off pretty easily with a putty knife. If it is construction adhesive, then a sharp chisel works very nice – safety tip… always keep your hands BEHIND the chisel….one slip, and you can slice open a thumb pretty quickly, hehe)

Wear safety glasses throughout this entire process to keep the flying debris out of your eyes 😉

Ok….now that the old sheetrock is out, and the studs are cleaned up, you are ready to put some new sheetrock up. I would recommend 1/2″ sheetrock… with a moisture resistant surface… this is usually called “greenboard” (because the paper on the sheetrock is usually a light green in color) This costs just a bit more than the regular sheetrock, but holds up much better in a humid environment. Trim the sheetrock to fit where it will go. Remember, you will need to cut holes for the plumbing on the piece that installs at the head of the tub. This can be done easily with a small drwyall saw, sometimes called a keyhole saw. A quick and easy way to get the location for these, is to use a piece of cardboard, or kraft paper…cut the holes in this, slip it over the fixtures, and measure down the wall stud to the paper… then transfer that to the sheetrock. =D
If this is a garden tub in a deck, then the plumbing usually comes thru the tub, or up out of the deck, as opposed to being thru the wall.
To glue the sheetrock to the wall, I like to use a construction adhesive… get all the holes cut, and the drywall cut to fit, before actually applying any glue. Use the caulk gun and tubes for it… and just apply a bead of glue to the wall stud itself, then press the sheet rock in place, and you can either shoot a narrow crown staple (air powered) thru it, or even use sheetrock screws. If using staples, then you want to put one in about every foot, down the wall. Sheetrock screws can be spaced farther apart. Really, all you need to do, is secure the sheetrock til the glue sets, and then the glue will hold it.

One note here… while the sheetrock is off the wall… this is a good time to examine the studs… see if any of them need to be replaced, due to bowing, etc. If you need to do that, email me, and I’ll be happy to walk you thru it.

ALSO – examine the area for mold and mildew… you may have some if the area has been wet, and stayed wet for any length of time. There are a few products out there that can kill, or encapsulate, the spores. A 50/50 mix of bleach and water will kill mold/mildew, but some folks find that too ‘harsh’ to work with (my wife is allergic to bleach, for example). There are several methods, as I said, to handle this if there is a problem… and most can be found at your local building supply or hardware store.

After the sheetrock is put up, you want to consider what kind of surface treatment you want to use… since you mention using ‘plastic… this is where you would install it. You can find many different kinds of surface materials to use here…. from fiberglass sheets, to acrylic tub surrounds… all fairly easy to install. They just glue to the wall, usually…you can ask for specific installation instructions where you buy them from. You will want to use a ‘mastic’, contact cement, or other ‘spreadable’ glue, in most cases. A few of them can be installed using construction adhesive too… just dont apply it in too thick a bead, heheh… or you’ll have a lump in the surface. A quick note here — before starting all this work… measure the distance from your tub to the ceiling…. you may not be able to get a ‘tub surround’ tall enough to go the whole distance, as some of these kits are made to just be applied without removing the tub first. So you want to know where to put it, if it doesnt run full length. If the sheetrock wasnt soft, then I would have suggest that you just get some sheets of this type of material, or a tub surround, and simply apply it over the existing sheetrock…. since it is soft tho… I strongly recommend replacing it.

Reconnect all the plumbing, put the knobs back on, shower head and escutcheon, etc…

Last step is to replace the trim — when you removed the trim initially…. it sometimes helps to number it on the backside… and either sketch out its location on a piece of paper, or mark the wall…since you may be tearing out the wall.. .a sketch may make more sense, hehehe. I like to use a pin nailer (also called a brad nailer) to install trim. If you don’t own one, you can rent a nailer and compressor for not too much. I also like to use the ‘bright white’ tub and tile caulk that comes in the squeeze tubes… this matches the color of most of that vinyl trim pretty closely. Apply a small bead of caulk along the edge of the trim, and you can even use it to cover the brad nails, or any small holes in the vinyl trim.
A handy trick when using latex caulks – wet your finger, and then run it along the caulk… this feathers it out nice and smooth… may take a bit of practice to judge how much caulk to use, etc… but is pretty easy. The latex caulk cleans up with soap and water, and cures quickly too. Quick rule of thumb.. I use silicone caulk OUTSIDE the home… acrylic/latex caulk INSIDE the home.

Whew! Long post, lol… feel free to email me if you have any further questions – Ive done a lot of work in manufactured homes.

I could do this entire job in a single day, with time to spare… but Ive had a lot of practice at it. If you are used to doing a lot of projects like this around the home, it is quite easily something you can tackle yourself. A lot of times it is simply knowing how manufactured houses are put together, that makes the difference in how easily the job can be done. I was once called out to a home… the gentleman had taken a weeks vacation to replace his tub — at the end of the week, he still hadnt managed to pull it out, hehehe…and was at his wit’s end, and very frustrated. In 45 minutes I had the old tub out, and the new one installed – lots of practice, hehehe… I told him afterwards….” I should have made that look harder”… lol.

Have Fun =D

zig asked What is the Best Emergency Survivor Kit?

I know there are tons of kit for sale out there, but I really do not know which brand / product is the best one to have?

I see a lot of Youtube video on how to survive economic crash and get prepared for it, etc. Everyone has a great knowledge and skills. But I do not really know what KIT to prepare for myself.. any advice ?

And got the following answer:

A pre-packaged kit isn’t exactly the best thing for an emergency. You can usually find out the items in it and get them at half-price for twice the quality.

A good start would be:
2. Note Pad and Pencil
4. Watch
5. Handkerchief or tissues
6. Orange Reflective Vest
9. Signal Mirror (a old CD works well for this)
10. Whistle
11. Pocket or utility knife, multipurpose with can opener. Swiss Army knives, Leatherman, or Gerber tools are recommended.

First Aid Pack:
1. Two (2) Antiseptic cleaning pads
2. Antiseptic ointment
3. Six (6) band-Aids, various sizes
4. Moleskin, 2″ X 4″
5. Roller Bandage
6. Two (2) large safety pins
7. Four (4) gauze pads
8. Tape, first aid
9. Any personal medication
10. Two (2) pair Rubber surgical gloves

1. Duck Tape, 5-10 feet (whole roll not required, may be wrapped around a stick)
2. Leaf Bag – Large
3. 12 wooden, waterproof matches (T)
4. Match container, waterproof, with striking surface
6. 50′ of nylon cord (paracord or similar line)
1. Change of socks (T)
2. Flagging tape – One (1) Roll
3. Flashlight with red and blue lenses. (T)
4. Spare flashlight batteries and bulbs (T)
5. Insect Repellent
6. Lip Balm with sunscreen
7. Sunscreen Lotion
8. Tissue / Toilet paper
9. Work gloves, leather (T)
11. Four (4) moist towellettes, clean, in foil wrapper

2. Shelter material – preferably 8′ X 10′(spare military poncho meets this need)
3. Coat for appropriate climate, if necessary (in pack if not wearing) (T)
4. Poncho
5. Canteen(s) to carry two (2) quarts of water, at least one (1) quart of water must be carried by all personnel
6. Compass pouch, containing compass, lensatic or orienteering (orienteering preferred). Compass should have a “glow in the dark dial”
7. Topographical map for area including a depressions and water sources
1. Protractor for map work
2. Map case (large zip lock bags can be used to carry if necessary)
3. Alcohol pens, fine tip at least two colors (neither color may be colors of your colored flashlight lens.
4. Some way to erase alcohol pen marks on the map case such as an alcohol swab or alcohol pen eraser
5. Straight edge ruler at least 6″ long

1. Comfortable backpack that you would be able to carry for at least 6 miles with full load.
2. Sleeping Bad, Bedroll, or poncho liner in waterproof bag.
5. Towel
6. Toiletry Kit
9. Entrenching tool, GI type (optional, but recommended by the experts.
10. Space Water Container (be ready to load water before moving out).
11. Four (4) Glow Sticks or more.

Plus you want water that can be stored for years and dehydrated food.
REMEMBER, this list is for ONE person

And this list is modified from what I carry on SAR missions

opheliaissaved asked Question on airline travel during the holiday season…?

Can you pack a lady’s shaver in your carryon luggage? (The three blade disposable head kind). According to TSA it looks like you can but I just wanted to ask someone who’s a frequent traveler. What else are they freaking out about, and tips?

Where’s the best place to park in Tucson at the airport? Any good hotels there? Anyone know any hotels that offer park and fly deals? How are the security checkpoints this time of year at the Tucson or Hartford airports?

I’m flying through Minneapolis and Detroit never been there before. How are the airports there just wondering?

Lots of questions I know… feel free to answer any part or all. Thanks for your help. You make Yahoo answers rock!

And got the following answer:

You can travel with a lady’s razor in carry-on luggage. Here is the quote from the TSA on razors:

Razor-Type Blades – such as box cutters, utility knives, razor blades not in a cartridge, but excluding safety razors.

Carryon – No Checked- Yes

Because they list safety razors being excluded from the list, you are fine to pack a ladies razor in your carry-on luggage.

Minneapolis and Detroit both have fabulous airports. They both offer the DVD rentals so you can rent a portable DVD player and movies and return it at your next airport. I am guessing you are flying with Northwest airlines as Detroit and Minneapolis are both Northwest hubs. If that is the case, you will really enjoy the Northwest Terminal at Detroit’s airport. It is beautiful, easy to navigate and lots of stores to keep you busy during layovers.

I would also suggest registering for your WolrdPerks card online. WorldPerks is a free frequent flyer awards program. Also keep in mind, on domestic flights depending on the class of your ticket, you can upgrade to first class sometimes for as little as $30.00. So its worth while to find out if your ticket is “upgradeable”.

Expect security lines to be extra long and busy for the holidays. The people moving through the lines are not “typical business travelers” and it will take security longer to process people not familiar with the routine. (Coats off/shoes off/laptops out and in a seperate bin..etc)

unekeuneke asked Name the things that have been banned from carry-on luggage on a commercial jet flight.?

And got the following answer:

Prohibited items are weapons, explosives, incendiaries, and include items that are seemingly harmless but may be used as weapons – the so-called “dual use” items. You may not bring these items to or through security checkpoints without authorization.
Box Cutters
Ice Axes/Ice Picks
Knives – except for plastic or round bladed butter knives
Meat Cleavers
Razor-Type Blades – such as box cutters, utility knives, razor blades not in a cartridge, but excluding safety razors.
Scissors – metal with pointed tips and blades longer than four inches
Baseball Bats
Bows and Arrows
Cricket Bats
Golf Clubs
Hockey Sticks
Lacrosse Sticks
Pool Cues
Ski Poles
Spear Guns
Ammunition – Check with your airline or travel agent to see if ammunition is permitted in checked baggage on the airline you are flying. If ammunition is permitted, it must be declared to the airline at check-in. Small arms ammunitions for personal use must be securely packed in fiber, wood or metal boxes or other packaging specifically designed to carry small amounts of ammunition. Ask about limitations or fees, if any, that apply.
BB guns
Compressed Air Guns
Flare Guns
Gun Lighters
Gun Powder
Parts of Guns and Firearms
Pellet Guns
Realistic Replicas of Firearms
Starter Pistols
Axes and Hatchets
Cattle Prods
Drills and drill bits – (including cordless portable power drills)
Saws – (including cordless portable power saws)
Tools – (greater than seven inches in length)
Billy Clubs
Black Jacks
Brass Knuckles
Mace/Pepper Spray – One 118 ml or 4 Fl. oz. container of mace or pepper spray is permitted in checked baggage provided it is equipped with a safety mechanism to prevent accidental discharge. For more information visit www.faa.gov, click on Passengers, then Preparing to Fly.
Martial Arts Weapons
Night Sticks
Stun Guns/Shocking Devices
Throwing Stars
Blasting Caps
Flares (in any form)
Hand Grenades
Plastic Explosives
Realistic Replicas of Explosives
Aerosol – (any except for personal care or toiletries in limited quantities)
Fuels – (including cooking fuels and any flammable liquid fuel)
Gas Torches
Lighter Fluid
Strike-anywhere Matches
Turpentine and Paint Thinner
Realistic Replicas of Incendiaries
Chlorine for Pools and Spas
Compressed Gas Cylinders – (including fire extinguishers)
Liquid Bleach
Spillable Batteries – (except those in wheelchairs)
Spray Paint
Tear Gas

bubbles62ful asked What should I pack for a week away?

I am a 13 year old girl. This July my church youth group is going to New Orleans. What should I pack? Can I bring a razor in my carry on bag? How about a disposable one? I did check the tsa website but got a little confused. Any tips? Thanks!

And got the following answer:

You should pack your own towel, shampoo & conditioner (buy travel sized or put your own in small travel bottles), a bathing suit, jeans, t-shirts, semi formal pants such as khakis, a polo or a semi formal shirt, sneakers, flip flops, sunscreen, a hat, iPod & a deck of cards, a book to read in your downtime, a dress to throw on over your bathing suit, a jacket, toothbrush & toothpaste, cash, pajamas, and other toiletries and undergarments. Wear something comfortable on the plane, and if you’re staying in a crappy hotel you might want to bring a pillow and maybe a blanket.

According to the TSA you may take any kind of razor for check in luggage. For carry on you may take safety razors, disposable shaving razors and razor cartridges. You may not take razor blades, box cutters, or utility knifes.

slab_rider45 asked where can i get a list of handtools ill need as a glazier?

i am going back to work as a glazier but its been about a year and a half since ive been gone and i asked for the company’s list of handtools required but the guy forgot to bring it with him. we do big commercial projects. mostly curtain walls. im pretty sure i have all of my tools from the last time i know i have my specifics (i.e. suction cup, vynil roller, bulk caulk gun, saftey harness, screw gun) i just need a list of hand tools. thanks

And got the following answer:

Tool box large enough to hold all tools and equipment
Tape Measure
Glass Cutter
Soft Faced Hammer
Glass Pliers
Wonder Tool
Rubber Gloves
Safety Glasses
Drill Motor
Diamond Tip Drill Bits
Utility Knife
Electric Grinder for 6” Sanding Discs

donutss asked If I try to pull off the lid of a paint can without any tools I cant.?

What would the realtive length of the effort and resistance arms and where are the effort and resistance forces applied?

Please help me! Thanks for looking!!!

And got the following answer:

That would depend on the container. An ordinary household product sold in many hardware and home improvement outfits by the gallon or quart would simply require gently walking a screw driver around the lip of the lid’s seal to the can, this screwdriver should have a fairly broad tip, but not be so large as to interfere with the fit in the rim where the pieces you desire to separate are joined. My Father-in-law who passed July last was a Commercial Sign and Billboard painter. He had a neat little trick when resealing the unused portion of the paint container when it was to be used for later projects. He would take one of his paint rags and wipe the little mating portions of the lid and can, and thereafter apply a small bead of very light machine oil. The kind grandmothers used to use on their Singers when they handmade quilts for their families. It seemed to allow easily reopening of the can even years later, where paint left in that joint would have adhered to both components in question and taken a major effort as well as a mess to reopen. Often times finding the top of the chemicals inside coagulated and requiring skimmimg to get to what might be good product left below. This meant oxygen had probably entered the container at some point due to a defective seal. That paint left in that joint expands when it cures. Now for the second possibility, since you did not specify the style of paint or container, the five or six gallon commercial size paint buckets require a very stout and rambunctious person with a set of Klein’s or Lineman’s pliers to tilt up the edge of the lid off the catch lip of the lower bucket. This was after you took a utility knife and cut the little spaces manufactured to allow the lid to be more readily seperated from the container. Later on, in the pesticide and herbicide industries, due to the inherent dangers of opening these poisons which were carcinogenic to their human handlers, in order to improve safety, the engineers developed a simple tool which resembles a large plastic church key, only squared off on the key end to facilitate matching the lip of the lid riding over the upper lip of the container. After cutting those same narrow pieces of plastic designed to allow easier entrance into the container, one simply walked the utility “church key” around the perimeter of the lid popping it loose usually with no additional tools required. These little devices are readily available from both the manufacturers of the products involved or can be purchased at most any hardware or home improvement center. If you don’t use all the product on your project, the lid design makes it simply to reseal and then reopen later with your wonderful little engineering marvel.
Sometimes if you have a tough gallon can to open, get yourself a small tack puller, which looks at the end like the claw of a hammer or nail bar only miniaturized.. They come in handy for many useful projects around the place too, and are rather inexpensive. If none of the aforementioned techniques and recommendations fail to resolve your issue, get George Bush to come up there with that Stihl chainsaw he wanted everyone to see him running so he too could be a man like some of the rest of us. Even though he never will be. I am sure he could cut it open for you.