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Benchmade 710 – Get The High End Multi Purpose Pocket Knife

The next few paragraphs offers important tips and advice that could help you successfully pick a pocket knife for your needs. Find the best pocket knife and it will serve you well for years to come.

The Benchmade 710 was designed by custom knife makers Bill McHenry and Jason Williams. It is the end product of their hard work over the course of 4 years. The popular AXIS lock makes it possible for easy one-handed opening and closing of the blade without your fingers ever being in the path of the blade. The lock was also designed by Bill and Jason. The lock design is straightforward to activate without directions needed on how the knife works.

As simple as the lock is, perhaps its major selling feature is its brute strength. In testing, the lock supported a negative load of over 200 pounds with no damage. After the lock finally failed, the liners simply cracked over the locking pin but in no way would the blade have closed on the user hand in testing.

For great functional redundancy, the AXIS lock features two Omega shaped springs. The springs are lightly stressed and tests demonstrate they should last indefinitely. Even though one spring fails, another will still operate without any problems.

It is difficult to say if this is the most durable lock made in folding knives. The manufacturer states the Benchmade 710 is more robust than any other knives on market. The sizable 3.9″ D2 Tool Steel blade of the 710 features a reverse-curve grind for better cutting ability.

On the butt end of the knife, there is a detachable stainless steel pocket clip. The butt end position of the clip is required as a result of the locking system. If the clip were positioned on the pivot end, the knife would stick out much very far out of your pocket.

The belt clip is reversible and feels natural in hand. I have the 710 Benchmade and use it for everything – cutting paper and cardboard, cutting string, heavy duty plastic box straps, cutting into the occasional snack, etc. It holds its edge very well.

Find out more. Click here for Free information on 710 Benchmade pocket knives

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History of Knives By Rajkumar Jonnala on February 23, 2010 0

Knives as Tools

Knives have always been an extremely useful tool to have. They are probably one of the only tools that we use daily that were used by our distant ancestors. The Bronze Age brought about the first significant change to knives, though since its softer structure didn’t make the strongest of knives, many still preferred the “older” stone tool. Stone blades and knives really remained the preferred material up until bronze was replaced with iron which was considerably stronger than bronze.

First Improvements

Ancient Greek and Roman civilizations are credited with the first folding knives as well as knives with ivory blades. It’s believed that this was a result of the popularity of cut fruits – ivory blades prevented the transfer of the taste of rust (or metal).

Manufacturing Knives

Between 1095 and 1272 there were a number of Crusades launched by the Europeans. During this time they traveled to all corners of the earth fighting for ground and more. Like so many other conflicts, this created an opportunity. France began its manufacturing of cutlery offering blades of various sizes and shapes and in a variety of materials. France had a corner on the cutlery market (including knives) until about 1789 and even today, you’ll find several cutlery manufacturers still in France.

The “Pocket” Knife

Today’s pocket knife is believed to be started sometime during the 15th Century – again out of necessity. Remember, knives were the main tool at that time, there was no cutlery, as we know it today – people ate their meals with the blades of their knife. This is when it is believed that multiple-blade knives made their first appearance and most likely resulting in more folding knives.

Material Improvements

While most early knives were created from carbon steel (or iron), today’s blades are made of surgical steel, carbon steel or from martensitic stainless steel. What has not changed much is the overall design of knives.

Nearly all collectible knives and Scout knives are created from carbon steel. The reason behind this is believed to be that while this knife can oxidize easily, it’s less expensive to manufacture, it’s very easy to sharpen and once sharpened it has a great edge.

Useful Knives

It seems like today you can find a knife for any purpose including fighting, multi-purpose knives, hunting knives and more. This development really came about during the 19th Century, material was readily available and more people were adept at creating knives. Whether you are looking for a simple purpose knife or a collectible folding knife, today you will have no trouble locating them. Whether your tastes run to plain handles or intricately designed handles, there is a knife available to suit your basic needs, or your desire to collect a piece that displays exquisite workmanship.


Today pocket knives are available for a fraction of the cost of what they used to be. You’ll find people from early teens to older adults, men and women sporting a pocket knife. Because of the impeccable record keeping that began around 1900, collectors have an easier time valuing and dating previously created knives, and particularly those rare hand-crafted ones. Knives are often used for wedding gifts, promotional items and more.

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dg asked What knife sharpener should I get?

I bought the Gerber ultimate survival knife from my friend. And he is stupid completely ruined the diamond steel that comes with it. So I wad wondering what is a good sharpener…….preferably one at walmart.

But since there is no grip on the sharpener
my house is made of (pink,red) sandstone and there are extra stones and I was wandering if I soak those would that be ok?

And got the following answer:

I have a Lansky sharpener set. It’s EXTREMELY easy to use and works wonders. It is a little pricey, but hell, I’ve made many a knife sharper than a razor blade with it! My Kershaw K1014 hunting knife is currently the sharpest, and on more than once occasion I’ve used it as a shaving blade due to me forgetting my razor at home on extended hunting trips. It’s easy to keep blades sharp as well, and if you keep them sharp at all times (sharpen it immediately after some use) it’s much easier to keep the blade’s edge and cutting angle.

Doom Potatoe asked So I’m looking for a good multi-purpose hunting/survival knife?

Background: Me and some of my friends are planning “A week in the wilderness” with minimal supplies (eg. a good knife, a canteen, first aid kit, etc.) and I’ve been looking for a knife I could use. I’m looking at a price range of about $200. Some of the features I’d want is like a removable flint in the handle to strike fires, serrated or half-serrated blade, etc. Survival-y stuff =)

If you guys have any questions, I’ll add it to the details, but I’m looking for suggestions of where I could buy a knife like that, or specific knives you’d like me to look at.

Thanks in advance!
It doesn’t really matter what kind of knife, just as long as it’s very functional and not overly expensive

And got the following answer:

What are these ‘multi-purposes?’ Must the knife split wood? In that case I like Cold Steel’s Recon Scout…before anyone asks, I bought it on clearance for about $40 normal street price is $80-90. For $40 I’m happy…but it is basically a very thick, very heavy bowie-style knife. It’s sharp, it’s heavy enough to chop and split, one could presumably dismantle a car body with it, and unless you put a lot of effort into it or it were really cold, it won’t break. Not to say there aren’t other knives, but it’s the one I’ve used to cut wood and chop Romex, and I’m still impressed.

IMHO, I’ve never seen the need for gizmos and gadgets integrated into a knife. At least not a $200 dollar knife. If there’s an accessory pouch, sure, load it up. But on the knife, there’s little I can see adding that would really work well, and not just obstruct the knife. The one knife I will make that exception for is the ToolLogic lockback knife with the flint rod in the handle. I think it may be discontinued, but it was just that, a lockback with a spark-producing rod in a little holder integrated into the handle. the BEST part of the package was the serrated notch at the choil, seperate from the blade, for the express purpose of using to make sparks. It worked like…awesome. Oh, it also has a whistle built in too.

My thought? If you have $200…

Buy a good lockback. Doesn’t have to be big. It’s gonna be cutting all the string and other little things and you should end up carrying it in your pocket all day every day for the rest of your life. As long as it’s decent steel, and/or made in US, you’re good. I like Gerber, CRKT, and Kershaw.

Buy a multi-tool, a Gerber, a Leatherman, etc. The pliers are one thing you can’t really replace. Use them to lift hot pots, bend metal, pull splinters, crush nuts, and etc. Plus you have other survival tools like wire cutters, screwdrivers, files/saws, another knife blade, and most importantly, CAN OPENER.

If you have some money left, you can buy either a decent fixed-blade knife, a machete, or a folding saw…or some thereof. A heavy bowie-type can both chop and cut…I used the Cold Steel to dice up a beef roast for chili…after chopping wood and then washing it. A machete is somewhat lighter, more utilitarian, less brittle (but harder to keep sharp-sharp) and better at big sweeps like grass and brush. That, and cheaper. Either CS, Ontario, or some other reputable brand. Machete can also dig and do other ‘don’t do this to a knife’ jobs.
A saw is the best way to make precision cuts in wood (For tools and furniture), and is a safe way to cut wood in general. Props to Gerber’s “Gator” model saw with the interchangeable blade. It does the job.

Last, but not least, make sure you have enough money, buy a real knife sharpener and learn how to use it. I say get either a two-sided whetstone, a flat diamond hone, or one of the kits from Lansky or the like if you get spendy. A dull knife is USELESS and DANGEROUS. As for your ‘survival’ a small flat-rock and perhaps a Smith’s diamond-hone pencil will serve to keep the edge keen.

Before your outing, make a plan. Make sure you are close enough to safety that you can get out if things get too tough (storm-of-century, forest fire, break leg, etc.) Bring water, it’s pretty much the only thing that over the short term you will absolutely need but can’t necesarily find everywhere. Practice your ‘skills’ in your backyard. And bringing ‘backup’ is not chicken, it is SMART. Do you think the survival expert on TV would be rubbing two sticks together in a pile of pocket lint and assorted loose hairs if he had a Bic lighter, or a Zippo/Ronson lighter and a tin of fuel, or a thermite grenade, and starting that fire were crucial?

daintyjane asked Where can I get my sewing scissors sharpened?

Apparently, my fabric store doesn’t sharpen scissors and can’t even make a recommendation.

And got the following answer:

Some brands, like Kai and Gingher, will accept scissors back for resharpening for a small fee… I think it’s $5 and postage for Gingher, just postage one way for Kai. Otherwise, there are independent scissors and knife sharpeners around — make sure they understand they’re working on sewing scissors rather than, say, haircutting shears as the angles are different.
Here’s one gentleman that I know of, but there are many more:

Some scissors probably aren’t worth sharpening, like the Fiskar’s look-alikes that you can get at Walmart for a few bucks.

There are a couple of tricks that might “sharpen” your shears a bit. One is to wipe down the blades with a scrap of cotton fabric soaked in 70% rubbing alcohol or unflavored vodka. This can get some goo off the blades that tends to build up after awhile — particularly when the scissors are also used for stuff like adhesive tapes or embroidery stabilizer. The other thing is to make sure the pivot area of the scissors is clean and wiped down, with a tiny drop of sewing machine oil placed at the pivot. Dust and yuck in that area can force the blades apart enough to affect cutting.

FWIW, my favorite shears, hands down, are Kai, and I prefer the standard to the “professional” line because they’re lighter in the hand. Excellent balance, not very expensive. Buy the biggest ones you can open nearly to the pivot. Ship them back to the Kai/Kershaw plant in Tualatin, OR for resharpening when they need them — in my experience, not very often. I routinely cut 6-8 layers of cotton twill at a time with mine. My only connections with the brand are 1) I use and like them and 2) I know where the plant is in Tualatin.