Benchmade Kitchen Knives

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Pocket Knife Care Made Easy by Larry Clark

There are literally thousands of articles on the web that outline various methods of caring for your knives. In this article, I will break it down to the simplest terms using the KISS principle Keep It Simple Stupid to describe how to ensure your favorite knife lasts you many years. The information in this article is valid for all types of pocketknives, and can be used to care for all knives.

Whether you have one pocketknife or a huge collection of quality knives, including the full range of pocketknives, folding knives, fixed blade knives and pulti-purpose tools, you must maintain and care for them or they will deteriorate. I remember once when I pulled my favorite knife out of the leather sheath for the first time in a year, it was all stained and the blade was covered with rust.

Maybe you just gave your son or daughter their first pocketknife and want to teach them how to care for it. No matter if you are a hunter, hiker, camper, or wilderness backpacker, you know that a quality pocketknife is a valuable tool and, if properly cared for it will last you may years.

There are many brands of pocketknives and just as many levels of quality with varying degrees of corrosion resistance suffice it to say knives made with lower quality metals will require somewhat more care to ensure they stay corrosion-free. BUT for the purposes of this article, the prudent level of care described below should keep any knife in good working order.

HERE ARE SOME SIMPLE TIPS TO CARING FOR YOUR POCKETKNIVES

1. USE YOUR POCKETKNIFE PROPERLY Remember a knife is not a screwdriver and a screwdriver is not a knife: Use your knife properly, cut only stuff your knife was made to cut avoid cutting cardboard or paper and never use a cutting board made of glass, granite, or other hard substances. And, of course, (but many people ignore this one) dont use your pocketknife as a screwdriver, chisel or a pry-bar.

2. STORING YOUR POCKETKNIFE When not in use wipe your pocketknife lightly with oil ( a good silicone spray lubricant can also be used) and store it in a dry place. NEVER store your knife in its sheath especially a leather sheath, as leather tends to hold moisture and can cause corrosion.

3. CLEANING AND OILING Many normal uses for your knife such as pealing citrus fruit, cleaning fish or skinning game can leave corrosive residues on your knife. After using your knife, always clean the entire knife with mild soapy water. Then dry it thoroughly and apply a liberal coating of clean oil before putting it into storage. Finally, if you dont use the knife frequently, take it out 3-4 time a year to inspect it for corrosion, and apply a new coat of oil. These actions will ensure a long life for your knife.

4. SHARPENING Always keep your pocketknives sharp. A sharp knife is more efficient and easy to use. There are a number of different styles of knife sharpeners the three primary styles are sharpening stones, diamond sharpening sticks, and ceramic crock sticks. All of these have their pros- and cons- but they all can sharpen knives effectively. When sharpening your pocketknife, I recommend you sharpen to the original angles of the blade. Just follow the instructions that came with the sharpener. Remember there is no need to grind the knife away – go slowly and check progress after every few strokes and stop when you have reached the desired sharpness. When done, dont forget to wipe the blade clean and apply a light coat of oil or silicone protectant.

IN CONCLUSION Take good care of your pocketknives and they will last for many years.

Keep your pocketknife clean and dry.

Oil your knife frequently; especially pivot points and the blade.

Keep your knife sharp; a sharp blade is safer than a dull one.

When not in use, remove your knife from the sheath and store in a dry environment

Original Source: http://www.articlecity.com/articles/recreation_and_sports/article_3586.shtml


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Rob T asked Kitchen Knife Care?

I recently bought a set of quite expensive kitchen knives. Does anyone know where I can look to get some tips on how to take proper care of them so they`ll last a while?

And got the following answer:

good info about all knives, some kitchen at the bottom 🙂

Modern knife steel is very high quality material, but all metal will corrode through time. Occasionally oil the joints and springs of a pocket knife with a drop or two of oil. This will assure easier opening and closing and will prevent rust and lessen wear. Wipe the blades now and then with an oil-moistened cloth to prevent rust- especially if you live in a damp climate or close to the ocean. If your blade should get wet, dry it thoroughly. If your knife comes into contact with salt water or any substance you are not certain about, you should rinse it immediately with tap water, dry it and apply a light coat of oil.

Do not store knives in their sheaths. The leather collects moisture and creates pits on the blade.

Check the locking notch of lockbacks regularly to ensure that it will work properly. Keep all sand and grit out of the knife. Keep the mechanisms clean. Remember to never rely on a folding knife to be permanently locked in position.

Do not use the cutting blade as a can opener, chisel, pry bar, screwdriver or for any heavy work for which your knife was not designed. Also, don’t use the back of your knife as a hammer. It may break the springs, handles or pin.

Handles made of wood can be occasionally rubbed with furniture polish or oil. Brass can be polished with household brass polish.

Remember to keep your knife sharpened — a dull blade can be more dangerous than a properly maintained one.

Below are some knife care tips from various sources and companies

(Thanks to Dexter Ewing) Every responsible and caring knife owner (that describes all of us!) needs to know the basics regarding the proper care of their edged tools. A well-maintained knife will serve as one’s companion indefinitely. The term “knife care” encompasses more than just knowing how to put a razor sharp edge on your blades. For information on sharpening, please refer to KnifeCenter’s Knife Care page. In this article I will address certain pertinent factors involved with knife care. Combining these tips and recommendations with the existing information on sharpening will allow you to keep all your knives in top working condition.

BLADES: Rust Not!

Perhaps the worst enemy of any knife is rust. Do not be fooled, even though the manufacturer or maker uses stainless steel. Given the correct conditions, even stainless steel can rust. If one lives and/or works in a marine environment, please pay close attention. Since the air in places like coastal regions has a higher than normal moisture content, with some salt mixed in, it is important to keep the surface of the blade lightly coated with a film of oil. The oil will prevent the salt-tinged moist air from coming into contact with the blade steel. Any household grade lubricating oil will suffice. A particular brand that I use is 3-In-One. It is available at your local hardware stores or home centers. 3-In-One is also good for lubricating folding knives, but before you do so I suggest you read my upcoming section on Folding Knife Lubrication. This particular oil does not have an odor, unlike WD-40. Do not get me wrong. WD-40 is great for this purpose, but I prefer not to use it because the odor may come off on your hand as you handle the knife. If the knife were to come in direct contact with salt water, wash it off as soon as possible with tap water and apply the coating of oil.

A word of advise for owners of the wildly popular Benchmade CQC7 – the bead blasted models are susceptible to rust. The type of rust that affects this finish is what I term as surface rust. It does not eat into the steel of the blade at all. I have experienced this first hand, as my CQC7 970S was carried clipped to my waistband for several days during sweltering summer heat and humidity. The perspiration condensed on the blade and dried. What was left behind was light brown rust dots. Immediately upon noticing this, I got out my can of 3-In-One oil and applied a few drops to the affected area and rubbed lightly with a cloth. The rust was easily removed and has not come back since.

FOLDING KNIFE LUBRICATION: A Pivot-al Issue

Another good use for oil in maintaining your knives – as pivot lubrication. Again, 3-In-One oil is good to use for this purpose. A few drops into the pivot area would suffice.

After a while of experimenting with different lubricants, I am happy to report that I have finally discovered the perfect folding knife lube. It is called “Dri-Lube” and is manufactured by one of America’s premier gun brand, Remington. (KnifeCenter Note: we have several similar products from Sentry Solutions) This is an aerosol spray (contains no CFC’s for worry free use!) that contains Teflon. I have been using this particular lube for a while, and it is great! This stuff is quite slippery too. Dri-Lube is best suited for folding knives for several reasons: 1) it dries on contact, leaving a thin film. No runs, no drips. Best of all, no mess, 2) thin film does not attract lint or dirt (Somehow, folding knives are lint magnets!), and finally 3) it will not wash away, therefore minimizing the number of repeat applications. This is one of those “a little goes a long way” things – just a couple of spritzes it all it takes. About $6 US will get you a 4 ounce can of this lube and it will last indefinitely (that is, if you only use it for folders. I guarantee that you will be tempted to use this lube on other moving parts as well!). A straw is included for pinpoint applications, which is what lubricating folders is. One word of caution: be careful of overspray, especially on tactical folders with black blades – once the lube dries on the black finish, a light residue can be seen. Simply use soap and water to wash this away. Remington Dri-Lube can be purchased anywhere that firearms and firearm care supplies are sold.

Having the desired lube to use is one thing, knowing where to apply it on the knife is another. It is best to use a spray lube, such as Dri-Lube, for locking liner knives. Using the included spray straw, aim directly at the pivot area to apply. Cycle (repeated opening and closing) the blade to work the lube in. If needed, spray a little more. For lockbacks and slip joints, the technique is a bit different. The area to aim for is the tang of the blade, where the backspring has constant contact with the tang during opening and closing. For best results, open the blade (or blades) perpendicular to the handle and apply the lube directly to the tang. Cycle the blade a few times to work the lube in. For consistent smooth operation, repeated applications at regular intervals will help your folding knife function properly.

IN CLOSING…

Knives are tools that are indispensable companions in our daily living and they also are investments. These reasons are why they should be cared for properly. Well-maintained knives will perform better, last longer, and provide the owner years and years of satisfaction. The above tips are based on my years of experience collecting and using knives – always consult the warranty documentation that comes with your knife on the manufacturer’s recommendations for care.
Knife Care (From Buck Knives)
All knives we sell are made to provide years of reliable service. Like most equipment, knives need a little care. Here are a few tips to help you get lasting service from your knife:

Keep your knife dry -the entire knife, not just the blade.
Keep your knife clean, particularly moving parts and locking device.
Keep your knife oiled; especially pivot points and the blade.
Keep your knife sharp. A sharp blade is safer than a dull one.
Do not attempt self-repair. This voids the warranty and may create an unsafe condition.

Knife Care Instructions
Stainless steel blades and other components minimize (but do not eliminate) the weathering effects of liquids and oxidation. Not all knives use stainless steel. Older knives, and some newer ones, use carbon steel that is more susceptible to effects of the elements and may need more frequent care. Knife performance and longevity are enhanced by regular care:
Clean the entire knife regularly, including blade, pivot points and locking mechanism. If possible, clean it without immersing into liquid (spray cleaners work well). If you immerse in liquid (water, soapy water, or solvents), dry thoroughly after cleaning, then oil blade and moving parts. Regular cleaning and oiling should take care of sticky residue and light surface oxidation or beginning rust formation commonly found on knives.
Discoloration of metal: Discolored metal has a blue/grey/black color, is a sign of oxidation, and precedes rust.
On non-stainless steel: Discoloration is common and can provide a barrier against oxidation. Regular cleaning will keep discoloration from turning to rust.
On stainless steel: Stainless steel does not discolor easily. Discoloration should be regarded as rust waiting to happen and should be cleaned immediately.
– Rust: Rust has a reddish-brown color. Rust will eat pits into your blade and contaminate what you cut. Light rust can be cleaned with oil. Heavier rust needs to be cleaned with more abrasive action, such as cleaner, polish, or plastic cleaning pad.
– Cleaning, polishing and lubricating help the performance, safety and longevity of your knife. Buck offers an assortment of knife care products.
– Store your knife in a dry place (out of the sheath). Lightly wipe the blade with clean oil 2-3 times a year to keep rust from starting (more often if near water).
Cleaning
After using your knife, it is a good practice to clean and dry your knife (the entire knife, not just the blade). Even for blades that are made with corrosion-resistant stainless steel, prolonged exposure to the elements can cause the steel’s surface to oxidize. Folding knives should be kept clean of debris, particularly the l

Chase asked Is a butterfly knife worth it?

I want to get a benchmade 67 balisong ($300). And i just want to know if u can actually use them for cutting task and if they hold an edge and that not for just tricks

And got the following answer:

The only kind of knife I would spend $300 on is a Japanese carbon steel kitchen knife.

Those last 20-25 years. I’m currently using one that is probably at least 15 years old.

Ramon D asked why do you think ernest emerson chose 154cm for all his knives?

I have scoured the web for information on why 154cm was chosen by ernest emerson for use in his current line of knives and can’t seem to find an answer, would you have insider knowledge or perhaps an explanation on why he chose this over say s30v or what have you?

And got the following answer:

154CM is a steel name. Developed in circa 1970 for jet engine turbine components. Exact composition is: C – 1.05%, Cr – 14%, Mn – 0.4%, Mo- 4%, Si – 0.3%.
Later, famous maker Bob Loveless popularized it for custom knives. However, knives are very small portion of total volume. At some point Crucible Metallurgy dropped production. Later Hitachi introduced Japanese version of it, ATS-34, which is pretty much identical steel.

In 1990s the 154CM was reintroduced. In time mass knife manufacturers started using it in knives, Benchmade, Emerson, Gerber, Buck to name a few.

In short, the answer is that back when Emerson chose that steel it was considered premium cutlery stainless steel. Actually Emerson and Benchmade and many others first used ATS-34 and then slowly switched to 154Cm, since it’s American made and rumored to have finer grain structure, which I doubt.

CPM-S30V is a better steel when heat treated properly. S30V makeup: C – 1.45%, Cr – 14%, Mo- 2%, V – 4%. Because of 4% Vanadium in it S30V holds edge much better compared to 154CM, but to get that advantage you’d have to heat treat the knife properly, and second, the edge has to be sufficiently thin. It’s real hard to get the performance difference with factory edges close to 40-50 degrees.

S30V had a troubled start, even though Crucible developed it with knife industry in mind and tried to make it simple to heat treat it, pretty much nobody got heat treatment right and people had their knives chipping, or too soft and rolling. As of today things have gotten better, but still to get the most out of S30V you’d have to get a custom knife, but the same is true for 154CM, although to lesser extent.

So, I assume all the above and more expensive price on S30V is why Emerson stuck to 154CM.

Besides, Emerson knives are more towards tactical side vs. utility. So, increased wear resistance is hardly the major concern for him. Although, I personally wouldn’t mind that.

To make matters more complicated Crucible Particle Metallurgy introduced PM (Particle Metallurgy) version of 154CM, which is called CPM154. Identical makeup, but different technology, results in better steel performance.
You’d have to watch out for misleading adds though, some dealers mark 154CM steel knives as CPM154 which isn’t the same thing.

Knife steels – http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml
More – http://zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/articles/kkchoser/kksteel.shtml

Daniil asked where can i buy a butterfly knife in Philadelphia?

i have always wanted a balisong or butterfly knife but cant find any, all the ones on ebay are either practice, a normal flip knife that looks like a balisong knife, or a comb or bottle opener practice knife.Please where can i buy one?

And got the following answer:

=Fante’s Kitchen Wares Shop
1006 S 9th St
Philadelphia, PA 19147
(215) 922-5557

= Kitchen Kapers
213 S 17th St
Philadelphia, PA 19103
(215) 546-8059

= I Goldberg Army & Navy
1300 Chestnut St
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 925-9393

BOB’S GUN & INDOOR RANGE
8470 Edinboro Road
Erie, Pennsylvania

Benchmade is the brand you’re looking for. Balisong is their trademark and a butterfly is the logo.

Amber asked What kind of knife should I get?

My boyfriend is really into knives and such, and for his graduation present I’d like to get him one with his name engraved in it. I don’t know much about knives so I was wondering what type to get him. I would prefer something he can carry.

My limit is $150

Links/ideas?

And got the following answer:

Knives are the oldest tools in human history and all the knife detractors here, own at least one kitchen knife or more. Still, they come out with whacky statements.

Anyway, for one, I suggest you buy on the internet, because it will be cheaper compared to brick and mortar stores.

Second, switchblades are not illegal in all US states, but are in some. So, unless you know local law it’s better to stay with plain folding knives.

Speedsafe knives can be also an issue. I know in California they are legal, but not so sure about the other states, at least I don’t know where they are illegal.

And blade length can be an issue too. Various states and even local towns can have their own restrictions on the length. So, 3″ 3.5″ long blade would be most likely legal in most of the places. Although I know San Francisco, LA, Oakland have 3″ blade length limit.

As for the particular brands, I can recommend Kershaw, Benchmade, and Spyderco. Very solid knives, good reputation and service from the makers.

For your budget you can get a very good folding knife.
Here’s bunch of folder reviews with photos and details – http://www.zknives.com/knives/folding/indexmk.shtml

I personally prefer Benchmades and Kershaws, good steel, good fit and finish. Spydercos look too weird to my taste, but they have their own dedicated fan base.

E.g. Benchmade 710 would be a very nice present. Axis lock, D2 or 154Cm steel, it’s a knife that is perfect for pocket carry. Except it’s 4″ long blade,so might be restricted in some areas. Price around 125$
http://www.zknives.com/knives/folding/benchmade/bm710ax.shtml

Kershaw Shallots are very good knives. Come in different steels too. Models with top end steels like ZDP0189 and CPM-110V are ~80$ and more conventional, but still a good steel like Sandvik are ~50$. Those have 3.5″ long blades.
http://www.zknives.com/knives/folding/hiend/kshallotzdp.shtml

Benchmade 707 is just under 3″ and makes a very nice utility knife – http://www.zknives.com/knives/folding/benchmade/bm707.shtml

Knife steel FAQ – http://www.zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml

If you know what kind of folders( I mean looks) he likes, you’re settled, otherwise pick something you like, it’s your present after all.

Some of the places where to buy on the net – http://www.zknives.com/knives/links/buy.shtml

P.S. To the knifophobic crowd – majority of knife related crime is committed with kitchen knives, not with the folders people carry or expensive collectibles, and in stabbing wounds those kitchen knives are followed by screwdrivers. So, what now, you are going to dump all your kitchen knives along with the screwdrivers or ask your senator to ban both?

who WAS #1? asked Who is into the fine art of knife sharpening?

I don’t have that sort of fancy equipment
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hQUrrFlNkhQ
But having spent many years as an amateur woodworker, sharpening cutting tools is a bit of a hobby of mine.

Yes I have an actual question. Long ago I used to have a hand-cranked grinding wheel. Low speed doesn’t mess with the temper of the tool-grade steel. I have tried to search the net but can’t find one.
i learned about this from Krenov:
http://jameskrenov.com/
I could never afford to attend his classes but i learned from his books:
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Mastering-Planes-David-Finck/dp/0806961635
Oh how I love making my own tools…. or loved, past tense, since I don’t have the facilities now….

Can anyone search the net better than I can to find a hand-cranked grinding wheel?
I am not asking about the old grindstone run by a treadle, this is clamped to the workbench and hand-cranked so one can control the speed and not heat up the metal too much.
I ask not only because it is a fine art but also, it doesn’t make any noise.
i have all sorts of sharpening tools, stones, everything. What’s missing from my collection/inventory is the hand-cranked grinding wheel.

And got the following answer:

Perhaps you could assemble one of these: http://jeffpeachey.wordpress.com/2009/08/18/itenerate-knife-sharpeners/

While it is not hand cranked, it is manual and it allows you to have both hands free while still controlling the speed of the wheel. The guy in the picture apparently rides his sharpener to work but without that requirement I would think a more ergonomic design would be possible.

On the other hand, as I am sure you are aware, modern low speed water cooled electric wheels can be run from a car battery with an inverter (You may have to give it a spin to start it going depending on the type of inverter you use) and are claimed to achieve superior results to older manual models. Prices start around $150.

http://woodworker.com/water-cooled-sharpener-mssu-958-371.asp

edit: I just realized I failed to answer your initial question. I used to enjoy sharpening my EDC knife but since I got my Benchmade with D2 steel I do not seem to have the patience. If it just needs a touch up I use a diamond stone, otherwise I’m almost ashamed to admit that I send it off. I sharpen my non ceramic kitchen knives with a cheap 2 stage “Chefs Choice” 300 my GF picked up at Goodwill. My ceramic kitchen knives have remained razor sharp with the exception of one which was broken due to carelessness.